Chimney Repairs & Repointing

Chimneys cause more leaks than any other part of a roof. They stand in the weather with no shelter, the mortar between the bricks washes out, the flaunching around the pots cracks, and the lead flashing where the chimney meets the roof fails. The result is a damp patch on the chimney breast inside, usually after driving rain.

We repoint, rebuild, re-flash and cap chimneys, and we are honest about when a disused chimney is better reduced below the roofline and tiled over than maintained for decades to come.

Before and after: chimney stack rebuild

The top of this stack had gone: spalled, frost-damaged bricks, failed mortar and moss all the way round the oversailing courses, with the pots sitting on little more than loose brick. We took it down to sound brickwork, rebuilt it in matching red brick with new corbelled oversailing courses and a weathered flaunching, re-set the pots with new cowls, and re-dressed the lead.

Old chimney with spalled bricks and failed mortar at the top of the stack — Before

Rebuilt chimney stack in new red brick with oversailing courses, new lead and pots — After

Old stack corner with spalled, cracked bricks and moss before rebuilding — Before

Close-up of the rebuilt stack corner and new oversailing courses — After

Leadwork on a slate re-roof

Two London stacks re-flashed during a full natural slate re-roof: lead soakers to every course, stepped cover flashing chased into the joints, and the stacks repointed. The full job is on our slate roofing page.

Lead soakers and stepped flashing being fitted at the chimney abutment — Before

Finished slate roof with repointed chimney and new lead — After

Warning signs

Damp on the chimney breastClassic sign of flashing or pointing failure; worst after wind-driven rain.

Crumbling or missing mortarVisible from the ground with binoculars or from a drone survey.

Cracked flaunchingThe mortar cap around the pots; lets water straight into the stack.

Leaning or stepped brickworkStructural movement; needs assessment before anything else.

White salts on the brickworkSulphate attack from flue gases; the inner bricks are breaking down.

Pots loose or missingA safety issue as well as a leak path.

What we do

Repointing in lime or cement mortar to match the original
Partial and full chimney rebuilds
New lead flashings, soakers and back gutters
Re-flaunching and new chimney pots
Cowls, caps and bird guards
Chimney reduction and removal below the roofline
Cavity trays and damp-proofing where the stack passes through
Structural assessment and liaison with engineers where needed

Materials and methods

Lime mortar (NHL 3.5) on period brickwork, which needs to breathe; cement mortar on modern stacks. Lead flashings to Code 4 with back gutters in Code 5. Clay pots from Redbank or reclaimed to match. Stainless cowls and guards. Bricks matched from reclamation stock for rebuilds.

Why choose us for chimney repairs & repointing

The leak traced to its real cause, not patched where the damp shows
Mortar matched to the brickwork so the repair does not damage the bricks
Lead detailing done correctly, which is where most chimney leaks start
Honest advice on reducing or removing disused chimneys
Scaffold itemised so you can see the cost

What to expect

A drone or roof survey with close-up photographs of the stack, flaunching and flashing, then an itemised quote. Chimney work almost always needs scaffold; we include it. Most repointing and flashing jobs take one to three days.

Related projects

Chimney rebuild

Chimney stack rebuild

Stack taken down to sound brick and rebuilt with new oversailing courses, flaunching, pots and lead.

All projects →

Frequently asked questions

Why does my chimney leak only in certain weather?

Wind-driven rain hits one face of the stack. Pointing or flashing failures on that side show up in those conditions only.

Can you repoint without scaffold?

Rarely safely. A tower sometimes suffices for low stacks; otherwise scaffold, which we price in.

Should I remove a chimney I do not use?

If it is in poor condition and unused, reducing it below the roofline and tiling over is often cheaper than repairs and ends the maintenance for good. Check with a structural engineer if the stack supports anything.

Do I need lime mortar?

On brickwork laid in lime, yes. Cement mortar is harder than old bricks and causes them to spall. We match the mortar to the stack.